Doc and Lifeline's F.R.I.D.G.E. Guide (FRIDGE - Fixing Rubberbands in Dead G.i.joes is Easy) ************************************************************************* V 1.4, dated: 5/30/01 Editor/Writer: E. Son Title Created By: Thad Moren Contributors: Christopher Allen Ed Transek Justin Lothrop Paul Jacoby Roger Thad Moren Thomas Wheeler Tim Warflight ************************************************************************* 1. What parts of my figures can I fix or restore? A. Screws B. Bands C. Loose Limbs D. Swivel arms and Elbow Joints E. Cobra logos 2. What *CAN'T* I fix or restore on my figures? A. Yellowing B. Broken waist/pelvis/crotch pieces C. Special Figures 3. Other Tips ************************************************************************* 1. What parts of my figures can I fix or restore? A. Screws Removing the screws is extremely simple using a small, phillips head screwdriver. If the screws are broken or in need of replacement, a good hardware store or hobby shop should carry small screws that can work as replacements. Don't forget that the screws in the back were also the same as the screws in each leg. Old broken figures that you no longer care for are an excellent source for new screws. Sometimes the screw head will get worn out and make it difficult to get the screw out. One suggestion is to apply Coca Cola to the screw, wait a few days, and then try removing the screw. Another suggestion is to try heating the figure in very hot water and then trying to remove the screw. B. Bands The black rubber bands inside the figures tended to sag after excessive play. Look for "Plumber's O-Rings." They sell for 25-39 cents each, and are superb replacements for the bands. Buy sizes of either #8, #9, or #10 and see which ones you prefer to use. C. Loose Limbs Many shoulder joints, head joints, and knee joints tended to get extremely loose and "flop" around after excessive play. To restore these joints, take the figure apart into its component parts. Then, either using clear coat or modeling paint, carefully paint over the hidden areas of the figure parts that have become worn. Let the paint dry, and continue this process until the joint is more stable. D. Swivel arms and elbow joints Two different methods of repairing these joints have been offered up. The first method involves slipping a small piece of colored paper in between the joint. The paper should be colored similarly to the color of the joint and should be small enough to not be seen easily outside of the joint. The second method is admittedly very tricky. Coat the blade of a single edge razor blade (or an exact-o blade) with glue. Then, slide the blade in and out of the swivel part very quickly. Twist the arm to prevent it from setting. This works, but is very risky. E. Cobra logos While there is no way to restore the original Cobra logo that is sometimes scratched off or worn off of certain action figures, Paul Jacoby's creative method can assemble a reasonable restoration. (1.) Download the COBRA logo found in the "multimedia" section of YOJOE.COM (2.) Open up whatever paint program you have (MS Paint, Adobe, or whatever). Go to 'file', then 'open' the COBRA logo onto your paint program screen (some paint programs don't accept gifs, so you may have to convert it into a bitmap or JPEG). (3.) Recolor the symbol to match the figure you want to restore. You may want to use a mint original for comparison. For the COBRA officer or HISS driver, I was limited to a metallic gray color. Silver was too hard to duplicate. (4.) Recolor the background of the picture to match the chest color of the figure (like dark blue for the COBRA officer). Again, you'll need an original for comparison. (5.) Make a color printout using a color printer. (6.) Take your printout to a copy shop that makes color laser copies on adhesive backings (makes your copies into stickers). The reduction should be approximately 25% of the original, then another 25% reduction after that. You'll need to work with the assistant on duty to find the best resolution. I suggest having the print assistant do the second reduction while creating the stickers so you don't have a poor resolution copy of a copy. (7.) On the new emblem, place a small piece of tape over it to "laminate" and protect it from fading. (8.) Cut it out and stick it to the chest of your figure! ************************************************************************* 2. What *CAN'T* I fix or restore on my figures? A. Yellowing Several factors can cause certain figures to become discolored and parts that were once bright white to turn yellow. This is a reaction in the plastic itself and cannot be cleaned. Some factors known to cause the discoloration include exposure to direct sunlight for an extended period of time, humidity, contact with chemicals (such as glue or tape), and bright artificial light. Certain figures are prone to yellowing more easily than other figures. The most important on this list are white action figures, like Snow Job (1983) and Storm Shadow (v1, 1984). Something in the white plastic used on him make them very susceptible to sunlight damage. Another figure who tends to become sun-damaged easily is Spirit (v1, 1984), whose blue shirt will fade into a pale blue - almost white. B. Broken waist/pelvis/crotch pieces This is probably the most common type of damage that occurs to G.I.Joe figures. Unfortunately, there really isn't much that can be done about it except to try to glue the broken piece back in. C. Special figures Certain figures are built in such a way that restoration and repair becomes difficult, if not impossible. The most common of these are many figures released after 1992, which were constructed without the screw in the back of the torso. This makes it nearly impossible to open the figure up and restore it. These include the 1992 and 1993 Ninja Force figures, the 1994 Shadow Ninja figures, the 1993 Star Brigade Armor-Tech figures, and most of the 1993 Street Fighter 2 figures. Another group of figures that cannot be easily restored are the color-changing siblings - Zartan (1984) and Zandar (1986). Probably due to their more color-changing torso pieces, the front and back halves of the torso were sealed closed. So while they are constructed with the screw in the back, they are not held together by it. If you need to restore these two figures, you'll need to cut open the two torso halves. If you do cut the halves, heat the figure before you do so - this will soften the glue holding it together. ************************************************************************* 3. Other Tips Prolonged contact with styrofoam has been found to damage some types of plastic.